Frequently Asked Questions

1. Why choose hardwood flooring over other flooring systems?
   

   Hardwood flooring has become the flooring of choice in fine homes and businesses because of its beauty, maintenance ease, and durability. Hardwood flooring has a natural beauty and radiance that gives any room a very warm feeling. And, like fine furniture, wood flooring increases in value over time. In fact, 90% of real estate agents surveyed stated that a home with wood flooring will sell more quickly and for a higher amount of money than a comparable home with any other type of flooring. Unlike carpet, 3/4" thick wood flooring can take wear and tear, lasting well over 100 years with proper maintenance. When the surface finish wears or gets scratched over time, you can recoat or sand and refinish the floors to make them look new again. The variety and colors of wood flooring available today also makes it easy to find one that will compliment any design ideas you have. Wood floors are also one of the wisest environmental choices you can make. Not only will they very likely outlast you but they are made from nature's most remarkable renewable resource. Despite the millions and millions of trees that have been harvested to make countless wood products, we have more wood growing today than we had in 1920. Wood floors require far less energy to make and are energy efficient themselves, making for great insulators. Inch for inch, wood flooring is about 16 times more efficient than concrete and 415 times more efficient than steel.

2. What are the health benefits of hardwood flooring?
   

   Wood floors contribute to making a healthier work and living environment. According to a report from the Environmental Protection Agency, six out of 10 homes today contain contaminants that can aggravate allergies and asthma. Today, allergies or asthma (asthma being one of the leading reasons children miss school) in some way trouble one out of five Americans. Wood floors are one of your best defenses against many of these irritants because they can easily be kept clean and have no fibers to trap dust mites, dander, pollen and/or other irritants. Carpet, on the other hand, can be a haven for dust mites and common asthma triggers.

3. Is hardwood flooring more expensive than carpeting?
   

   A high quality wall-to-wall carpet often costs more than hardwood flooring products. Looking at flooring as a purchase that will last for generations with proper maintenance, it is clearly a better value. Once hardwood flooring is laid down it should only need an inexpensive re-coating (if properly maintained) as it shows signs of wear. Comparing this to carpeting which needs expensive deep cleaning every year or two and replacing after only a few years, it's easy to see that hardwoods are a better value and less expensive in the long term.

4. How is hardwood flooring a good investment?
   

   Hardwood flooring can add value to your home in the following ways: Hardwood floors are generally nailed through the sub floor to the joists, which adds structural integrity to your home. Hardwood floors act as thermal insulators. Hardwood floors add value to your real estate investment and generally make a property easier to sell. Hardwood floors are very durable. While most floor coverings (carpet, linoleum, etc.) last an average of 8 years, hardwood floors can easily last the life of the building. Today's hardwood floors are affordable and maintain their value over time. Hardwood floors come from a renewable natural resource and can be recycled into other wood products in later years. (Particleboard, paper, mulch, etc.)

5. Will my floor change color over time?
   

   Yes, you can generally expect to see shade differences in your floor over time, especially in areas near windows. The change in your wood floor's color is usually a result from exposure to the ultra-violet rays of the sun, both direct and indirect. These color changes are normal and more noticeable in certain species of woods, mainly exotics, like Brazilian Cherry that naturally darken over the years. In addition, some floors will also change color over time as a result of the finish that what used on them. Oil Modified, Swedish, most Single Component Waterbornes, and some Moisture Cure Urethane finishes with amberize or yellow over time. In contrast however, most Two Component Waterborne finishes will not yellow or amberize, staying clean and clear for years to come. This characteristic is often attributed to the fact these high-end finishes are alophatic in nature and can be attributed to their special chemical composition.

6. Where can/can't I install hardwood in my home?
   

   Today's hardwood floors have made advances in style, durability, maintenance and care, making them more widely usable throughout the home. With the variety of products available and a choice of installation options, hardwood flooring can now be installed in any room of the home, though full bathrooms are usually not recommended. Generally, the only consideration is whether the floor will be installed on-, above- or below-grade. For example, because of potential moisture problems, solid hardwood is not recommended for installations below grade, such as basements. Engineered products, which are inherently dimensionally stable, are better choices for these areas. All types of hardwood can be installed on- or above-grade.

7. What is prefinished flooring and is it right for me?
   

   Prefinished floors are just that, hardwoods finished in the factory as opposed to onsite after they are installed. Today's prefinished floors come in a variety of styles and wood types to complement any home but they are not for every situation. Installing a prefinished floor eliminates some of the time, dust and the odors associated with the on-site sanding and finishing of an unfinished product. Their most common uses are in new construction homes, especially track homes and sub developments where homes are built very quickly. Some of the drawbacks from prefinished floors are their appearance. Since the wood boards are finished in the factory, after the floor is installed, it will have a gap or crack along each pieces edge. With site finished floors, the end result is a smooth and unison finish devoid of the prefinished "crumb catchers." Prefinished floors are also extremely difficult to repair and their wear warranties often do not hold water. Finally, while they may come in many colors and types, the finish is generally the same and one that cannot be recoated effectively (read FAQ #19)). This means that they will need to be fully sanded and refinished as they wear instead of a recoated, taking away from the overall life of your floors. In the end, traditional and high-end homes always have site finished hardwood floors. These floors also allow for expression in design from the home owner and an elegance not found anywhere else. Before deciding to install a prefinished floor, talk with your hardwood professional about the pros and cons of each and what is best for your situation.

8. Can I sand and refinish my floor?
   

   Many hardwood floors can be sanded and refinished at least once and as many as three times or more. The exact number depends upon the total thickness of the product or the thickness of the top layer of premium hardwood (engineered floors). To refinish wood floors, the existing finish must first be sanded off completely, and then the floors smoothed out and flatten. Repair work and filling is done if necessary and a stain or finish is then applied. The procedure can take up to five days or longer, depending upon the size of the space and staining or finishing options desired. While sanding and refinishing a floor may be costly and disruptive to the household, it is usually more economical than replacing the floor and an excellent way of bringing new life and brilliance into your home.

9. When is it time to re-coat or refinish my floor?
   

   When your floor begins to look worn, dull and/or scratched it may be time for a recoat or refinish. A simple test to indicate which process you need done, is to pour a tablespoon or two of water onto your floor. If the water beads, your floor is simply a little dirty or tarnished from wear and tear. The solution in this case is just some cleaning and stain removal or a recoat (read FAQ #19). If over a period of a few minutes the water slowly soaks into your floor, your floor is partially worn and will probably need refinished soon, but for now just take a little extra care. If the water soaks right in, it is time for a full sand and refinishing of your wood floors. While this test is helpful to determine what your floors need, it should be left to the discretion of your hardwood flooring professional as to which process you need.

10. Can I re-coat my floor instead of re-sanding?
    

    If your surface finished floors have not been waxed or oiled, re-coating is a great option to extend beauty and longevity. It takes less time, is significantly less expensive than re-sanding and creates less of a mess. If you re-coat your floors every few years, before the finish has worn through, you will prolong the life of the surface of your floor and reduce the need for re-sanding. Recoats fail more than any other process in hardwood floor work. The reason is always the same; something prevents the new finish from adhering (bonding) to the old. This could be dirt, wax, oil or a hundred other chemicals and debris that finishes don't like. Always talk with your hardwood flooring professional to see if recoating is right for you.

11. Why does my floor have cracks/gaps in them?
    

    In is common for cracks to appear in floors, especially with wider planks, due to shrinkage and expansion over the years. Small cracks are not harmful to the floor and most will only appear seasonally due to changes in moisture levels. In order to reduce or eliminate the chances of getting cracks in your floor, make an effort to maintain a humidity level between 45% and 55% throughout the year. Air conditioning, a de-humidifier in the humid summer months, and a humidifier during drier seasons help to keep the humidity level more stable year round. Any article made of wood is subject to expansion and contraction resulting from changes in humidity. Wood is a hygroscopic material, which means it will absorb moisture in a wet environment and give off moisture in a dry environment until the wood reached equilibrium. Approximately 1% dimension change takes place with each 3% change in the moisture content of the wood. This applies to hardwoods more than soft woods though Maple (a hardwood) is especially susceptible to this dimensional change relative to moisture content. Air can hold a certain amount of moisture at a given temperature. Relative humidity expresses what percentage of this maximum value that the air is actually holding. Warm air can hold more moisture than cool air. For example, if a sample of air at 32 degrees and 100% relative humidity is heated to 75 degrees, the relative humidity of that sample drops to 20% because the warmer air has a larger water holding capacity. During the winter months, the interior relative humidity of homes drop significantly as the heat is turned on. Wood flooring (as well as wooden furniture and any other wooden objects) will shrink as a result of this decrease in relative humidity. This shrinkage will manifest itself in the form of slight cupping, cracks or gaps in the floor. These kinds of seasonal changes in wood flooring are normal, and not defects. Seasonal changes in wood flooring can be mitigated through the use of climate control devices such as a humidifier. Wood flooring should be stored in such a way as to minimize exposure to humidity levels greater than that of the normal level of the structure or residence in which it is to be installed. Wood flooring should be stored inside the enclosed structure or residence after heating and cooling systems are operational, near where the flooring is to be installed. Wood flooring must not be stored in a garage or other unheated structure, as the relative humidity in an unheated structure will be significantly different than that of the interior of the structure. Wood flooring must not be stored in a structure or residence where propane heaters are in use, as propane heaters generate large amounts of moisture as a by-product. Failure to follow proper storage procedures may result in expansion and contraction beyond the normal expansion and contraction described above.

12. How do I control contraction and expansion of my floor?
    

    This is a very common question with a very simple answer. To ensure your floor stays in place and has a long life free of damaged caused my extreme contraction and expansion, maintain the humidity in your house at a level between 45% and 55%. This is a simple and efficient step to increase the longevity of your floor. An added benefit of maintaining humidity is your personal comfort.

13. Why does my floor squeak?
    

    Hardwood floors, all of them, will eventually develop some sort of squeak in them. The reason behind this is that they are nailed to a wooden structure called a sub floor made of wood underlayment and joists. The nails are an efficient and cost effective way of fastening but have the following drawback. When the wood expands and contracts with the various seasonal humidity changes, the holes around the nails also expand and contract. As we use and walk on the floors we continue to loosen them by jiggling them ever so slightly each time we use them. Your floors may squeak more in one season than another. For most homes, they squeak more during the heating season, which tends to dry out and shrink the hardwood strips. In newer floors it can sometimes be the result of your floors shifting due to changing humidity. This can be avoided by maintaining an equal humidity level throughout the year. Some solution thoughts: . Humidify the house during the heating season and dehumidify during the summer, humid months. . Shims can be driven between the sub floor and joists to create a swelling at the spot that the squeak occurs. . In some cases the floors can be secured by adding screws underneath the floor in problem areas. . Sanding and finishing will not solve a squeaky floor problem.

14. Can a scratch in my floor finish be fixed?
    

    This is one of the toughest questions in hardwood floors because the answer is generally "No". Floor finish does not lend itself to be "spot repaired" similar to that of a ding or scratch in the paint of you car. The correct way to fix scratches is by repairing the area and recoating the adjoining floors (which often extends into many other rooms). The reason for this is that new finish will be different in color and sheen that the old finish, due to time and wear, and could look worse than the scratch did initially. Also by adding more finish in only a specific area, a flow or finish line will be inevitably created that can be identified by both sight and touch. What this all means is that spot fixes are more artistic than mechanical and by no means an exact science. Since recoating entire floors is not always an option and spot repairs a tricky prospect that doesn't guarantee perfection, speak with your hardwood professional.

15. My floors look dull, is there something that will make them shinny again?
    

    The sheen level of your wood floors is a characteristic of the finish used on them. For a surface finished floor, the only thing that you can do besides cleaning them is to have a flooring professional apply more finish (recoat (read FAQ #19)). The use of wax or other residue leaving products can cause damage to your floors and prevent them from being recoated in the future or cause problems the next time they are refinished.

16. How do I maintain my wood floors?
    

    Hardwood floor maintenance is essential and can be found here for surface finished floors (i.e., Waterborne, Oil Modified, Swedish, Moisture Cure Urethane).

17. Can my painted floors be refinished?
    

    Painted floors can often be refinished but must be tested by a laboratory for lead content first. If the paint contains lead, it must be chemically removed from the floor by an EPA approved agency following stick rules for removal and disposal. If no lead is present, your floors can be refinished as long as they are in good condition. The cost in refinishing painted wood floors is generally higher due to the increase amount of labor and sandpaper that will be needed. Talk with your hardwood flooring professional for more details on what is needed in your situation.

18. What do I need to know about having fir floors refinished?
    

    Fir floors have qualities and characteristics quite different from those of true hardwood floors (Oak, Maple, Ash, etc.). Fir is one of the softest of all woods used to manufacture wood flooring (Janka Hardness), and is about 100% more susceptible to impact damage than either Red or White Oak. This delicacy makes fir floors much more difficult and exacting to refinish, as much care must be taken not to remove too much wood during the sanding process. Older fir floors are often severely damaged and many require repair prior to refinishing. Most older fir floors are constructed from 3 1/4"x 3/4" tongue and groove boards blind nailed to the subfloor. The head of each nail is approximately 5/16" below the surface of the floor at the time of installation. Over the course of the years, and with successive refinishings, the depth of the wood to the head of the nail decreases, and often the heads of nails begin to show between the boards. When fir floors are this thin, sometimes refinishing is not a viable option, and installation of a new floor may be necessary. Fir floors are also more prone to movement and squeaks than hardwood floors. In high traffic areas the softer fir will often work loose from the nails, causing these areas to feel loose, and possibly squeak. When the house settles, the floor will try to change shape as well. Movement and squeaks in a floor are normal; attempting to repair this kind of movement often involves removing some of the existing flooring to expose the subfloor, and can be costly. Refinishing can be accomplished without these costly repairs, and the floors will look beautiful. Due to fir's unique qualities, the appearance and performance of your floor will differ significantly from those of a hardwood floor. Fir floors often exhibit large gaps or cracks between the boards. Because many fir floors move so much, the filler may not hold as well in higher traffic areas. The large gaps between boards often collect dirt and other residue over the years, which further interfere with the bonding of the filler. As with movement, the filler failing to hold is very common, and cannot be guaranteed to unconditionally hold. Filler is cosmetic; its failure to hold does not adversely affect the performance of the floor. If you are concerned about the appearance of the gaps and cracks that remain, a maintenance program using painter's putty is an inexpensive do-it-yourself answer. Refinished fir floors often exhibit another characteristic called 'mottling' or 'bruising'. In high traffic areas or near the perimeter of a room, the fir often shows darker, blotchy areas, caused by water, sunlight, or impact. These discolored areas often lighten with heavy sanding, but with the application of finish, they can be somewhat pronounced. The extent of this 'bruising' can vary greatly from room to room, and even from area to area within a single room. Again, this is very common, and installing a new floor is the only assurance that this 'bruising' won't occur.

19. What is a recoat?
    

    A recoat is merely applying another coat of finish to the existing finish of your wood floor. While simple in definition, this is the most commonly failed process in wood floor finishing and is extremely subjective to wear maintenance and finish/floor condition. Generally speaking it is a short, often 1 day, process that involves a thorough and deep cleaning of your floors with special solvents. Next your floors are lightly abraded to create a good "profile" for the new layer of finish to establish a mechanical as well as chemical bond to. For more information about recoating and if it is right for your floor, contact your local hardwood flooring professional.